Portugal, though small in size, is one of the world’s most diverse and distinctive wine-producing countries. With more than 250 indigenous grape varieties—many found nowhere else on earth—Portugal offers an extraordinary range of styles, from crisp, mineral-driven whites to rich, complex reds and world-famous fortified wines. Its winemaking tradition dates back over two millennia, shaped by Roman settlers, monastic orders, and generations of families who continue to craft wines deeply rooted in their regions.
Portugal’s geography and climate create a natural tapestry for viticulture. The cool, green northwest is home to Vinho Verde, a refreshing, lightly effervescent white that captures the Atlantic’s maritime influence. Moving inland, the Douro Valley, one of the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world, produces powerful red table wines and the iconic Port—a fortified wine known for its depth, sweetness, and aging potential. To the south, the Alentejo region contrasts with rolling plains and hot, dry summers that yield bold, fruit-forward reds and smooth, approachable whites.
Beyond these famous regions, Portugal’s charm lies in its variety. The Dão offers elegant, structured reds from the Touriga Nacional grape, while the Bairrada region is known for its robust wines made from the Baga variety. Even the volcanic Azores and Madeira islands contribute unique expressions—Madeira itself being another legendary fortified wine prized for its longevity and complexity.
Modern Portuguese winemakers have skillfully blended innovation with respect for tradition. Today, Portugal stands at the intersection of authenticity and contemporary appeal, producing wines that combine old-world character with exceptional value. Whether enjoyed as an introduction to Europe’s lesser-known treasures or as a study in terroir and heritage, the wines of Portugal offer a captivating journey through history, landscape, and culture—one glass at a time.
I recently had the opportunity to attend a master class and large general tasting of Portuguese wines and ports at the Port Wine Fest in San Francisco on Sept. 30. The range of excellent wines was impressive and I was astounded by the number of grape varieties I had never heard of. The world of Portuguese wine is largely unexplored by the American consumer. My colleagues and I made our way through the tasting searching for the hidden gems. The following wines were the most memorable and deserve the effort to search them out. They are the cream of the crop.
Table Wines
2021 Quinta da Gricha $46
This dry red table wine from the Churchill group comes from the Douro Valley. it is dark, dense and perfumed without excess, not exuberant, with serious plum and cassis fruit and a little earth. The oak feels quite integrated, and it has abundant, slightly dusty tannins that would welcome food. Should last in the cellar for a decade or more.
2020 Montaria $15 (Best Value)
Hailing from one of my favorite regions in Portugal – the Alentejo this wine is crafted from Syrah, Trincadeira and Aragonez. It is sensually textured and shows exceptional mid-palate finesse, a dry and serious finish and ripe tannins. It is approachable now but will also last for 5 or 6 years in the cellar.
2019 Duorum Field Blend $55
A product of the J. Portugal Ramos winery this interesting field blend from the Duoro Valley. this dark purple wine is explosive, exuberantly fruity with abundant berry fruit and a core of violets. It’s showy and a bit smoky with a juicy palate, balanced with good freshness and abundant smooth tannins and a long finish. This finely crafted wine is delicious now yet will certainly improve with time in the cellar.
2023 Bathoreu Trincadeira $19
A wine from the little seen (in the US) Tejo region of Portugal from the obscure Trincadeira grape. It reveals a smoky rustic, earth and tar-scented nose, to go along with its saturated purple color. The wine reveals excellent extraction, a clean, rich style with good length and moderate tannins. This would be the perfect partner to grilled ribs or burgers.
2020 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva $28
This wine contains a majority of Alicante Bouchet the star of the Alentejo with some Aragonez and Touriga Nacional. The wine is dark and opaque and feels young and lively. The palate is fresh seamless and still pretty underdeveloped. It’s a textbook, old style Alentejo red with notes of wild berries, herbs and spices and earthy and rustic touch and plenty of character. Built to last this wine will improve with time in the cellar. Lovely.
Ports
2009 Nierpoort Colheita 2009 Port $46
A Colheita port is a single-vintage Tawny Port, meaning that all the grapes come from one harvest year. It is aged in wooden casks for seven years. It is young and lively, keeping the red fruit character, some bittersweet notes, serious, balanced, juicy and tasty with a velvet texture.
Ramos Pinto Adriano White Port Reserva $24
One of the surprises when I visited Portugal was how much white port they drink. It is almost unheard of in America. They often serve it over ice as an aperitif. This smoothly textured wine is ripe, generous and rich. It has delicious honey and lemon flavors that are enhanced by the baked apple flavors. It would make the perfect aperitif.
2005 Kopke White Colheita Port $66
This is a weightier and more complex white port that would be more suitable on its own rather than in a cocktail. This smooth ripe wine is poised between honey and bright acidity. It is complex and concentrated touched with spirit and gifted with an attractively rich aftertaste.
2021 Boeira Late Bottled Vintage Port $45
This is a beautifully focused LBV with a real backbone, fine concentration and intense flavors on the finish. The texture is particularly seductive and velvety. Full-bodied and lingering on that finish, it should drink well for the next 15-20 years or so.
Pocas 20 Year Old Tawny Port $48
For a lot of folks a 20 Year is the sweet spot in the lineup for Tawnies. Its fresh, and reasonable complex, so its old enough to be serious; and most of all it is actually affordable compared to some of the really old ones. This is lovely showing a grace of caramel and darker chocolate flavors this is still dominated by freshness. Its lively acidity lifts the fruit and allows the flavors to pour over the palate finishing with a touch of sugar and big fruit.
